It’s a bit out of the way to get to...the closest decent-sized airport is Bangor, and that's an hour away (possibly more with traffic). For many vacationers, driving is the best bet. It's a good four and a half hours from Boston, and close to nine hours from NYC. But you'll get to Bar Harbor eventually, and it will be worth the trip.

Once you're there, though, ditch your car, and get around by bus. The Island Explorer will take you to and from local hotels, the green at the town center, and various destinations in Acadia National Park--all for free. The buses come regularly, the drivers are cheerful and helpful, and the whole system does an admirable job of reducing traffic and alleviating the parking shortage.

The town itself is charming. Lots of restaurants will be glad to serve you local beers (we were most fond of one called "Lunch" brewed by the Maine Beer Company) and local seafood. Maine restaurants have a tendency to put lobster in all kinds of dishes, which is (mostly!) a good thing--it's delicious steamed of course, and I think it's a legal requirement that you have to at least have one lobster roll when you visit. It's also quite nice to find lobster in your salad or your gazpacho. (I draw the line at ice cream, however--there's simply no reason for that.)

You will also find blueberries in unexpected places, again with mainly positive results. Besides the usual pies, pancakes, and fruit salads, you may, for example, find blueberry compote served alongside a duck entree. Several local breweries make blueberry lagers, and, much to my surprise, I found them refreshing on warm days. (I remain unconvinced that they are a value-add to oysters, however.)

If you want a break from the typical (but quite good) seafood eateries, we were pleasantly surprised by Brasserie Le Brun, an upscale French restaurant that opened last year. The service and the food are both excellent: try the paddlefish caviar, the smoked bluefish pate, the scallop ceviche, the tuna Nicoise, the mushroom risotto, and the steak frites. (Okay, you may have to go back more than once...)

The shops are, all in all, pretty lovely, Of course you can get postcards and t-shirts and stuffed lobsters and puffins and moose (should you be seeking any of those things). There are a few stand-outs, though. In the Woods has an amazing variety of wooden items: bowls, cutting boards, utensils, toys, birdhouses, and even utterly gorgeous chess sets. Sea Bags has beautiful tote bags in creative designs, made of recycled sails--each somewhat unique, and possibly including waterspots, stiching, hardware, or telltales. Sherman's bookstore is just terrific--a well-curated selection and an easy place to lose track of time. I also adored their rainbow window display.

But don't spend so much time in the town that you neglect the natural beauty of the area. Acadia National Park has absolutely stunning landscapes. We did a moderately challenging hike (Beech Mountain Trail) and were rewarded with this view.

One of the most popular locations in the park is Cadillac Mountain. It's so popular that if you want to drive up there, you'll need to make a reservation. The most in-demand times are sunrise and sunset but it's lovely at any hour. (And if you're inclined to do a 7 mille hike up that way you can do so anytime you like--no reservations needed for that, just an awful lot of stamina.)

Another, considerably easier, walk will take you from the Bar Harbor waterfront to Bar Island. There's a land bridge that's only above water at low tide and it's also a delightul place at sunset. Don't tarry too long on the other side, however; if you get stranded when the tide comes in, you will have to wait nine hours for the pedestrian path to reappear, or pay exorbitant sums to be rescued. (Best really to pay attention to the clock!) Here's a view from way up above...and one at sea level at sunset.

One more recommendation---take a boat tour if you have the time. We took a sightseeing and nature cruise with Acadian Boat Tours and saw seabirds, bald eagles, and beautiful coastlines, and we got a brief history of the area, and a lesson in lobstering. It was absolutely lovely to be on the water and our guides were friendly and knowledgeable.

Maybe next time I"ll continue up the coast---there's a ferry to Nova Scotia...

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Laura LaVelle