If you are traveling through JFK airport (or if you just find yourself in Queens for any reason at all) and you have some time for a meal, it is an excellent use of your time to stop by the TWA Hotel and eat at the Paris Café.

The elevator ride from “Present Day JetBlue” to “1960s TWA Hotel” is a fabulous way to begin the journey to what had been the TWA Flight Center (active from 1962 through 2001, designed by Eero Saarenin), and which has now been repurposed into the only hotel at the airport. If you are an aviation geek, a fan of the mid-century modern look, or just enjoy gorgeous interiors and some retro charm, you will love the place, full of swooping curves and luscious red carpets. There are old fashioned phone booths and departure boards that actually work. If you leave your luggage at the hotel desk while you eat, the staff will use TWA identification tags on your bags. The soundtrack playing includes the Association, early Beatles, Dion, Frank Sinatra. In other words, the attention to detail is perfect. And it’s just plain fun–which as we all know, has been in exceedingly short supply these days. There’s a feeling, being there, of joy and optimism and potential–the magic of a well-designed public space.

If you’re by yourself you can probably just walk in, but if you’re traveling with a group, it’s best to have a reservation. The Paris Café has something for everyone, with a small but broad dinner menu: burgers, pizzas, salad, fish, chicken, pasta, steak. It is much better than it truly needs to be, as the location itself would make most diners quite forgiving..but fortunately, the food is excellent. It should be: the kitchen is overseen by Jean-Georges Vongerichten. You can watch the planes coming and going, enjoy the very good service and well-executed dishes, and drink a toast to the recent past and a brighter future.

Warning: it’s a little expensive for the casual ambiance and standard food options. Best to be in vacation mode when visiting, spending a little more for the atmosphere, treating yourself kindly. It’s a great beginning or end to a trip, or a special occasion excursion if you’re local.

I ate there on my way home from a vacation in Key West not too long ago, having one more fun experience before heading home; it was probably the best meal I’ve ever had at an airport, and I'll definitely be back. Maybe next time I fly through JFK we’ll extend the trip and spend the night.

ADDRESS: Terminal 5, 6 Central Terminal Area, Queens, NY 11430

HOURS: 7 am to 10 pm daily

PHONE: (212) 806-9000 

LEAD-IN PHOTO by Max Harlynking on Unsplash