Surrounded by a myriad of waterways and islands, Stockholm is a laid-back pedestrian paradise – inspiring during the white nights of summer and probably bleak as shit in winter. The kids are hip, the design is sleek, but the city is grounded by its historic structures, scads of centuries-old buildings with Peter Pan-like rooftops and loads of European charm.

TIPS:

* Have some coins handy as the public toilets are of the pay-as-you-go variety.

* Be patient. A couple of customer service folk were friendly but for some reason couldn’t or wouldn’t give us a specific answer (Example: What time does the sun go down? Answer: Late . . . Second Example: How do I get to H&M? Answer: Turn left, walk towards NK, then ask somebody how to get there).

* We found Stockholm safe but pickpocket warning signs show up from time to time, and our friend's wallet was lifted there many moons ago.

* If you have the cash (possibly because you took the bus into town), stay at the Grand Hotel. It's the standard. We also recommend The Berns along with its stunning chandelier-strewn restaurant. It's a site to behold.

* Our favorite neighborhoods were quaint Gamla Stan (AKA Old Town); and hip Sodermalm.

* Venturing into the nightlife scene? Here's a good Reddit post to get you started: reddit.com/r/stockholm/comments/x7xnl4/nightlife_in_stockholm

* Two restaurants that look very intriguing to us are a bistro owned by a mother and daughter team (https://mammaojag.se) and a decently-reviewed Italian restaurant (www.dengamleochhavet.se) that's putting out some interesting Swedish-language videos on YouTube.

* For other restaurant ideas, try out this local Swedish website: https://thatsup.co.uk.

* Whether its vintage goods, modern decor, or stylish raincoats, Stockholm has some good shopping. We know this may sound crazy, but buy some Scandanavian salt while you're there. It'll be one of the best you’ve ever tasted. One brand we like: FALKSALT.

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By Daniel Welsh on Unsplash