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The Last HouseTropical modernism in Sri Lanka
Published 3/11/2024
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Tangalle is a little bit further away from Sri Lanka's capital city, Colombo, than the more visited Mirissa, and I would say that much better. It is interesting how one may fly 24 hours to get to the teardrop island, but then decide that Mirissa beach 1h away is accessible but the Tangalle beach 2h away is just too far!!! 

 

After significant research we found ourselves at the Last House, a Geoffrey Bawa – the father of what is known globally today as tropical modernism – architected villa complex. As noted in his 2003 Guardian obituary: "Geoffrey Bawa developed an architecture that was a blend of both modern and traditional, of east and west, of formal and picturesque, that broke down the barriers between inside and outside, between building and landscape, and that offered a blueprint for new ways to live and work in a tropical city."


Not only was every room in this 5-room compound an absolute delight, but every lounge spot, sitting nook, and window view was a picture-perfect picture frame. You dared not move a chair or bed aside or askew as you would ruin the intentionality of the setting. 

 

We stayed in Moonamal, a separate bungalow on the ground floor with large wooden doors shuttered windows opening onto the ocean-side courtyard. Towards the back courtyard there was a bathtub in a room with no roof to gaze into the moon and the stars. Cinnamon Hill was an enviable master suite set-up with a cast iron claw foot tub and balcony overlooking the ocean.

 

From the several chaise lounges that are perfectly situated on the lawn under the frangipani trees, you had but a glimpse of the raw Indian Ocean, only accessible through a small little gate. And you wondered if this was the gate to Paradise or the gate leaving Paradise. 

 

I pondered this question every day as I tried to decide whether to stay in the tranquility of the villa or venture out to explore the seaside. 

 

I also wondered whether Bawa loved or hated the ocean. The ocean is only incorporated into his architecture visually, and not physically. A way to control the environment and reduce them into a series of indoor outdoor rooms. In the end, I imagined Bawa wishing to tame the Indian Ocean through his lens.

 

Beyond the amazing architecture which pictures just do not do justice and being situated on a quiet crescent of a magnificent beach barely shared with neighbors, our trip was made ever more special because of the hotel’s hospitality. The Manager who at the time was also the Chef cooked us Sri Lankan fish curry using his mother’s recipe.


I wouldn’t do Tangalle any other way.


FOR MORE INFORMATION


https://www.thelasthouse.com

 

ADDRESS


Pubudu Mawatha, Seenimodara, Nakulugamuwa, Tangalle


CONTACT


reservations @

manorhouseconcepts.com

ph: +94(0)112333861

The Last House

Morakatiyara, Sri Lanka


IMAGES


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Category: Travel
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