This is an amazing, white table-clothed seafood restaurant that still bears the spirit of its humble origins as a venta - typically a roadside restaurant that is simple and casual, serving hungry drivers in Spain.

Unlike many roadside stops, ventas in Spain serve home-cooked staples, not fast food noshes.

Newly renovated, this restaurant which sits on a main drag, serves highly elevated cuisine with an ever-changing menu of seasonal, local products.

There is the freshest of tuna tartar done two ways when we visited, a lightly seared white fish, and cured sardines in salmorejo, the Southern style of gazpacho. The game is also amazing, and the chef told us not to miss the partridge pate, which was exquisite.

This is where we were also introduced to a local red wine from Bodega Tesalia in Arcos de la Frontera.

By the way, we found out where the chef shops for her fish. We can tell you about that, too.

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